Myśli potargane (o życiu i nie-życiu)

Malezyjska (a może indyjska) gościnność

A gdyby tak w  mieszkaniu obok mnie zamieszkali na kilka dni Hindusi, Wietnamczycy albo Hiszpanie… Co musiałoby się stać, żebym zdecydowała się poświęcić swój czas i energię specjalnie dla nich? Zatrzymać swój regularny świat na kilka chwil i zastanowić się, jak pokazać im część polskiej codzienności? Odłożyć pisanie, sprzątanie, zabawę, gotowanie, przyjaciół, komputer, planowanie i całą resztę. Tak, jak zrobiła to dla nas Neelaloshini (choć, gdyby nie facebook, sądziłabym, że ma na imię Nila).

Nie jestem pewna, czy w ogóle przeszłoby mi to przez myśl. Dopiero będąc tutaj, po drugiej stronie, zyskuję tą perspektywę. Kiedy uśmiecham się do zaproszenia na wspólną kolację. Kiedy późnym wieczorem wchodzę do obcego mieszkania, by zobaczyć hipnotyzujący, wielkomiejski widok z balkonu na piętnastym piętrze. Kiedy widzę, że ta obca kobieta jest gotowa i chętna przebywać z nami i poświęcać swój czas.

Neela ma 43 lata i jest Malajką. Poznaliśmy się, prozaicznie, kiedy pomogła w telefonicznym zamówieniu jedzenia do kondominium. Jej mama pochodzi z Indii, a córka w wieku 12 lat płynnym angielskim opowiada o swoich przygodach i szkole. Rawina (córka Neeli) bardzo lubi dzieci (a one to odwzajemniają). Za kilka lat ma pojechać na studia za granicę, by szybko stawać się samodzielna. To było marzenie Neeli i coś, czego brakowało jej samej, zanim dorosła. Cztery lata temu, w Afryce, zmarł jej mąż. Neela pracuje w ubezpieczeniach, a po godzinach jest instruktorem jogi. Nie przestaje się uśmiechać.

Mieliśmy spotkać się na herbacie i porozmawiać o malajskiej rzeczywistości. Raz Neeli coś wypadło, potem my wróciliśmy do domu zbyt późno. W końcu umówiliśmy się na niedzielę, dzień przed planowaną datą wylotu do Indonezji. Kiedy jechaliśmy samochodem (w siedem osób w pięcioosobowym aucie, ale – kolejna osoba to potwierdziła – tutaj dzieci zwyczajowo nie liczą się w kategoriach zajmowania miejsc) spodziewałam się rozmowy z Neelą i jej córką. Do tego smacznego jedzenia w restauracji wybieranej przez lokalnych mieszkańców. Spodziewałam się też, że będziemy jedli łyżką i widelcem, choć nie wykluczałam wyłącznie prawej dłoni.

– To jest moja bratowa, mój brat i ich syn. – powiedziała jeszcze zanim zaparkowaliśmy, wskazując na postaci za szybą.

Usiedliśmy przy okrągłym stole z ustawionym na środku obrotowym panelem. Na nim stały potrawy na półmiskach donoszone przez kelnerów. Każdy mógł obracać panelem i mieć dostęp do tego, na co zgłaszały potrzebę oczy. Na szczęście panel był na tyle daleko, że i Janek i Kasia mieli trudność w przewróceniu tego, co się na nim znajduje. W przeciwieństwie do tego, co znalazło się (już nałożone) na talerzach przed ich oczami. To jedna z tych azjatyckich restauracji, które odwiedziliśmy, gdzie prawdopodobnie sanepid nie uciekłby po przekroczeniu jej progu.

Kuala Lumpur to mieszanka (przede wszystkim) trzech kultur: chińskiej, malajskiej i hinduskiej. Są wyraźnie zaznaczone rejony miasta, gdzie można zobaczyć i posmakować każdą z nich. Neela, jej brat i bratowa czują się Malezyjczykami. Ich rodziny pochodzą z Indii, a spotkaliśmy się w chińskiej restauracji. Opowiadają o Malezji, jako o najbardziej europejskim z azjatyckich krajów („Zaczęliście od złego kraju. Powinniście zacząć od Malezji, a dopiero kiedy okrzepniecie tutaj – pojechać do Tajlandii, by zmniejszyć kulturowy szok.”). Wyraźnie cieszą się na spotkanie z nami i chętnie pytają o naszą podróż.

Zachęcają, z różnym skutkiem, Marysię, Kasię i Janka do interakcji. Dowiadują się od nas, że jest krępujące (na początku), a wręcz frustrujące (po kilku tygodniach) łapanie dzieci za policzki, włosy i ręce. Tutaj to wyraz sympatii, ale nasze dziewczynki wyraźnie protestują i złoszczą się przy każdej kolejnej osobie, która chce to zrobić (lub to robi). I ja się im wcale nie dziwię. Sterowanie trasą spaceru tak, by zmniejszać prawdopodobieństwo kolejnych łapań, przytuleń i uścisków nie jest ani fajne, ani komfortowe.

– Nie pomyślałabym. Dobrze to wiedzieć. – być może przypadkiem uratowaliśmy kilka dzieci przed tym nieprzyjemnym zachowaniem.

My dowiadujemy się, że zgodnie z tradycją, mężatki noszą czerwone bindi (charakterystyczna kropka na czole u wyznawców hinduizmu), wdowy czarne, a młode kobiety mogą same wybrać kolor. Potem doczytuję, że kiedyś bindi było robione z pasty na bazie kurkumy, szafranu i różnych ziół oraz kwiatów, a jego celem było (między innymi) ochłodzenie nerwów i zgromadzenie pozytywnej energii dla całego ciała. Dzisiaj to przeważnie przyklejana kropka, która dalej może mieć znaczenie „trzeciego oka” (symbolizuje patrzenie na świat i ludzi także umysłem) i religijne (kropki na czole mijanych ludzi mają przypominać w czasie bez modlitwy o sensie życia, samorealizacji i stawaniu się lepszym człowiekiem).

Przede wszystkim jednak przeżywamy wieczór tak, jakbyśmy byli częścią tej rodziny. Przy jednym stole, z chińską herbatą (godzimy się, by nie psuć jej cukrem), wyśmienitą rybą (której nazwy nie znam) i wielosmakową ucztą dla zmysłów. Nie czujemy się tutaj jak turyści.

– Niecodziennie mieszkają koło mnie ludzie z innych krajów. Turyści raczej wybierają hotele.

Wybór mieszkania z kuchnią był podyktowany przede wszystkim dziećmi. To nieporównywalnie większy komfort szykowania dla nich jedzenia i częściowego uniezależnienia się od lokalnych smaków (ja i Maciej nie wyobrażamy sobie tej przygody bez tutejszej kuchni, Janek zjada prawie wszystko, a Marysia i Kasia były szczęśliwe, kiedy dla odmiany dostały naleśniki albo risotto). Okazuje się jednak, że ogromnym walorem takiego mieszkania są zwykli (niezwykli) ludzie, pośród których czasami trafi się Neela. Otwarta, ciekawa nas, z radością pokazująca nam swój kawałek świata.

Czy ja wpadłabym na to? Czy otworzyłabym drzwi i zrobiłabym więcej, niż tylko odpowiedź na zadane pytania? Po tym, co tutaj przeżyliśmy – myślę, że tak. Nie chodzi o poczucie sprawiedliwości (choć chciałabym komuś oddać tą serdeczność, którą otrzymałam), czy zrobienie czegoś bezinteresownie dla drugiego człowieka. Chodzi o szansę. Na wymianę doświadczeń, rozmowę, nową perspektywę, zastrzyk dobrej energii, trening dla umysłu, możliwość zrozumienia czegoś nowego, ludzką życzliwość, jakiś nowy początek, a pewnie i wiele więcej. To było naprawdę wow.

Neela obiecała Maćkowi, że przyjedzie z Rawiną do Polski. Mam nadzieję, że będziemy mieli okazję ugościć ją i pokazać jej to, czego turystom w Polsce trudno doświadczyć (dopóki są wyłącznie turystami).

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